Fashion today is produced and consumed globally. It is dependent on a rapidly changing infrastructure influenced by art, popular culture, technological innovation, politics, and trade regulations. Moreover, fashion constantly references ideas and cultures from around the world, both past and present.



The Fashion Reader is designed for students, scholars, and anyone interested in contemporary fashion. The book brings together the key writings on the subject, covering the history, culture, and business of fashion.



The extracts are drawn from a wide range of sources - books, professional and academic journals, magazines, interviews and exhibition catalogues. Each section is specially introduced and concludes with guides to further reading.



1. A Brief History of Modern Fashion

2. Fashion Theory

3. Fashion & Identity

4. The Geography of Dress

5. Politics of Fashion

6. Fashion & the Body

7. Fashion & Art

8. Fashion in the Media

9. High/Low: From Haute Couture to the Street

10. The Fashion Business

11. Future of Fashion

About the editors

Linda Welters is Professor and Chair of the Dept of Textiles, Fashion Merchandising and Design, University of Rhode Island.

Abby Lillethun is Assistant Professor in the Dept of Textiles, Fashion Merchandising and Design, University of Rhode Island.

Contents

List of Figures

Acknowledgments

List of Contributors



Introduction, Linda Welters and Abby Lillethun



Part I: A Brief History of Modern Fashion

Introduction, Linda Welters

1. From Baroque Elegance to the French Revolution: 1700-1790, Kimberly Chrisman-Campbell

2. From Neoclassicism to the Industrial Revolution: 1790-1860, Susan North

3. The Victorian and Edwardian Eras: 1860-1910, Cynthia Cooper

4. The Modern Era: 1910-1960, Tiffany Webber-Hanchett

5. The Postmodern Age: 1960-2006, José Blanco

Annotated Guide to Further Reading



Part II: Fashion Theory

Introduction , Abby Lillethun

6. The Power of Fashion, Kurt Lang and Gladys Engel Lang

7. Written Clothing, Roland Barthes

8. The Fashion System, Grant McCracken

9. The Dressed Body, Joanne Entwistle

10. Re-Orienting Fashion Theory, Sandra Niessen

11. Fashion at the Edge, Caroline Evans

Annotated Guide to Further Reading



Part III: Fashion & Identity

Introduction, Abby Lillethun

12. Is it a Girl or a Boy? Gender Identity and Children's Clothing, Colleen R. Callahan & Jo B. Paoletti

13. Sentimental Culture and the Problem of Fashion, Karen Halttunen

14. Men and Women: Dressing the Part, Jo B. Paoletti & Claudia Kidwell

15. The Zoot Suit and Style Warfare, Stuart Cosgrove

16. Invisible Men, Shaun Cole

17. Subculture: The Unnatural Break, Dick Hebdige

Annotated Guide to Further Reading



Part IV: The Geography of Dress

Introduction, Linda Welters

18. The Highlander Myth, Hugh Trevor-Roper

19. Ghulam Sakina: A Case Study in Transnational Design Production, Claire Dwyer and Philip Crang

20. World Cities of Fashion, David Gilbert

21. Auckland as a Globalising Fashion City, Alison Goodrum, Wendy Larner and Maureen Molloy

22. Suitably Attired , William Hamilton

Annotated Guide to Further Reading



Part V: Politics of Fashion

Introduction, Abby Lillethun

23. Feminism and Fashion, Elizabeth Wilson

24. Local Consumption Cultures in a Globalizing World, Peter Jackson

25. Finding the Moral Fiber: Why Reform is Urgently Needed for a Fair CottonTrade, Oxfam Briefing Paper

26. Not Only Nike's Doing It: 'Sweating' and the Contemporary Labor Market, Richard McIntyre and Yngve Ramstad

Annotated Guide to Further Reading



Part VI: Fashion and the Body

Introduction, Abby Lillethun

27. A Second Look at the Big Squeeze, Jennifer Ruark

28. Nap Time: Historicizing the Afro, Robin D.G. Kelley

29. 'Material Girl': Madonna as Postmodern Heroine, Susan Bordo

30. Extreme Surgery, Graham Lawton

Annotated Guide to Further Reading



Part VII: Fashion and Art

Introduction, LindaWelters

31. Art and Fashion, Michael Boodro

32. Fashion Rendering, Richard Martin

33. On the Marked Change in Fashion Photography, Olivier Zahm

34. Viktor & Rolf, Andrew Bolton

Annotated Guide to Further Reading



Part VIII: Fashion in the Media

Introduction, Linda Welters

35. Fashion on the Page, Christopher Breward

36. Supermodels and Super Bodies, Jennifer Craik

37. Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis, Kathleen Craughwell-Varda

38. Dressing the Part: Sternberg, Dietrich, and Costume, Sybil DelGaudio

39. Sex and the City in the British Fashion Press, Anna König

40. Punk and Neo-Tribal Body Art, Daniel Wojcik

41. Selling Culture: Bloomingdale's, Diana Vreeland, and the New Aristocracy of Taste in Reagan's America, Debora Silverman

Annotated Guide to Further Reading



Part IX: High/Low: From Haute Couture to the Street

Introduction, Linda Welters

42. When Worth Was King, Anne Hollander

43. The Dressmaking World, Thérèse and Louise Bonney

44. Torontonian Taste in Couture, Alexandra Palmer

45.Trickle Down, Bubble Up, Ted Polhemus

46. Second-Hand Dresses and the Role of the Ragmarket, Angela McRobbie

47. Punks and Pirates: The Costiff Collection of Vivienne Westwood, Sonnet Stanfill

48. Japanese Street Fashion: The Urge to be Seen and to be Heard, Yuniya Kawamura

Annotated Guide to Further Reading



Part X: The Fashion Business

Introduction, Linda Welters

49. Inside Design-A Look at the Method Behind the Madness, Katy Chapman

50. Business Sense: It Takes a Lot More Than Individual Flare to Stay at the Top, John Andrews

51. The Diary of a Dress, Lisa Armstrong

52. The Islamic Factor, Nicholas Coleridge

53. Dorothy Shaver: Promoter of 'The American Look', Tiffany Webber-Hanchett

54. McFashion is Entertaining, Michelle Lee

55. Born in the U.S.A.: The Growing Premium Denim Market Goes Global, Julia Fein Azoulay

56. Four Models of Fashion Relationships, Simona Segre Reinach

57. Fashion in India, Vandana Bhandari

58. Two for a Penny, Pietra Rivoli

Annotated Guide to Further Reading



Part XI: Future of Fashion

Introduction, Linda Welters

59. What Happened to Fashion, Teri Agins

60. Implications for the Appearance-Alteration Industries, Ted Polhemus

61. Born to Buy, Juliet B. Schor

62. Dreamweavers: Weaving the Future, Cathy Newman

63. Made in China, Arthur C. Mead

Annotated Guide to Further Reading



Bibliography

Index